This week the group had the opportunity to go to Hebron, a city in the west bank where Israeli-Palestinian tensions run high. Since Hebron is the historical location of Abraham and the patriarchs, both Jews and Muslims have a strong religious connection to the area. So although Hebron is technically in the West Bank, the city has been divided into a 2 sections – area H1, which is Palestinian controlled, and area H2, which is Israeli controlled.
The west bank is divided in to areas A, B, & C. Area A is under complete Palestinian control, Area B is politically Palestinian but militarily Israeli, and Area C is completely Israeli controlled –for "security reasons" for the state of Israel. It is interesting because 60% of the whole west bank is area C, so that means that out of the West Bank, only 40% of it is actually Palestinian controlled, and there are checkpoints and border patrols sprinkled throughout the occupied territories. So the West Bank is really like a piece of Swiss cheese: the holes are walled in Palestinian areas, and the rest is all under Israeli control. Mobility is pretty restricted and difficult for Palestinians within the West Bank.
Our time in Hebron was eye opening, challenging, and very interesting. We saw and heard many heart-wrenching stories, and as I think back on the experience, I am still figuring out what to do with the information and how to process everything. There has just been so much to think about.
Upon arriving, we all dropped our bags in our rooms and met up for lunch in the café area of the hotel. After our stomachs were filled with delicious hummus and falafel, we clambered onto the bus and splashed through the wet roads of Hebron into the Old City. Sheets of rain pelted us as we filed off the bus and into the puddle filled streets. Within a few minutes, our feet were soaked through, but we were distracted from the rain and cold by the beautiful buildings, streets, and majestic lure of the Old City.
We winded our way through the cobble stone streets and came to a security checkpoint where we passed through metal detectors and pushed our way through a revolving metal door. A few paces later, we found ourselves face to face with a series of tollbooth looking structures and a handful of Israeli soldiers. After passing through with no problems, we walked around the bend and up the rise to the Ibrahim Mosque. Again, we passed through a set of tollbooths and Israeli soldiers passed us through. We walked by a carpeted area set aside for women to pray, and into a small room with shelves on one side. Removing our shoes as is customary in mosques, we shelved our shoes and entered into the main area of the mosque. I was amazed as I looked at our beautiful surroundings: the Quranic versus dancing across the walks, the beautiful intricate designs on the ceilings, the amazing old wooden platform, the list of prayer times on the wall.
We made our way into another room to view the walled off tomb of Abraham and Sara. From the window, we could see across the way to the other side of the mosque, which has been taken over by Israeli forces and converted into a synagogue. In 1994, there was a massacre within the mosque killing 29 Muslims. After this outbreak of violence, the Israeli government took over control of the mosque and divided the building into a mosque on one side and a synagogue on the other. Today, Jews and Muslims are unable to cross over to the other side. Israeli soldiers protect the synagogue and Israelis on the other side.
While I was standing there in the mosque, I looked across to the window on the synagogue side and made eye contact with a Jewish man. We held focus for a few seconds before he glanced away. But for those few moments I stood staring into this young man’s face from across a barrier. It is amazing that these Israeli Settlers and Palestinian Muslims can be so physically close but be separated so much.
Friday afternoon we all jumped on the bus and drove out to visit a group of 17 families living in caves outside of Hebron. Meeting the cave dwellers was one of the most powerful experiences we have had so far. What a life. These villagers have to walk in and out of that road to get anywhere, and then are often stopped by settlers and soldiers. Two young boys we talked to (16 & 18) told us that they have been beaten by settlers on their way to school. Children in the village leave at 5 am and walk close to 3 hours to get to school. It is hard to imagine walking a total of 6 hours a day simply to get an education. It makes me realize just how much I have to be grateful for.
The cave dwellers are facing many challenges today. They have had a lot of their land taken through confiscation by the Israeli government. In 2005, a security fence was built in the area taking more of these people’s land. Surviving off agriculture, families are having increasing difficulties providing for themselves and their community. The community members have to purchase food and other necessities from surrounding villages, and spend a great deal of money on fuel for electricity, which they use for less than 2 hours a day. Life may be very challenging, but this is how these people have lived for generations, so why give up their heritage and culture now? This is home.
--Sarah Oakes
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